The Part No One Prepares You For

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Currently Happening on the Farm
Today wraps up the goat series. If there is a series you want next or anything I missed in these goat emails, reply to this message and tell me. So far we have covered cows, egg layers, broilers, and now goats. I said a few weeks ago that I am looking into pigs, so next week I will share what I have been learning.

We also got our first freeze last night, so I think it is safe to say Texas has finally cooled off from the summer.

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Breeding Basics That Save Headaches

You do not need to overthink this, but you do need a plan.

When to breed

• Most dairy breeds cycle every 18 to 21 days in fall and winter.

• First breeding at 8 to 10 months if the doe is at a healthy weight and frame.

• Aim for a body condition that is firm over ribs with no bony hips.

Choosing a buck

• Buy the best genetics you can afford. A great buck improves every kid for years.

• Ask for milk records or growth rates. Look at feet, legs, and udder lines in his family.

• Always quarantine a new buck for 30 days.

Breeding methods

• Hand breeding means you supervise and record the date. Clean and simple.

• Pasture breeding is easier, but you will not know due dates as precisely.

• Marking harnesses on the buck help you track cycles and confirms the breeding window.

Kidding Prep You Will Be Glad You Did

Due dates and space

• Gestation averages 150 days. Mark it on the calendar.

• Set up a clean, dry kidding pen two weeks before the window. Fresh bedding, no drafts, water and hay close by.

What to have on hand

• Large clean towels, puppy pads, iodine for navels, kid puller or OB lube, sterile scissors, bulb syringe, digital thermometer, Nutri Drench, heat lamp only as a backup, and a scale.

• Colostrum plan: the doe’s is best. Have powdered backup in case. Kids need colostrum within the first two hours.

Signs it is close

• Ligaments by the tail head soften or feel “gone.”

• Udder fills and teats look ready.

• Doe gets restless, nests, or isolates herself.

Normal delivery looks like

• Two feet and a nose first. Gentle traction only if needed and only on a contraction.

• Clear the kid’s nose and mouth, dry thoroughly, and let mama bond.

• Dip the navel in iodine and make sure the kid stands and nurses.

When to call the vet

• No progress after 30 minutes of strong pushing.

• A malpresentation you cannot correct.

• Fever, foul discharge, or a doe that will not stand.

Early Kid Care That Pays Off

• Make sure each kid gets a full belly of colostrum on day one.

• Weigh kids at birth and again at one week. Steady gains are your best health indicator.

• Offer a small creep area with hay and fresh water by week two.

• Disbud within the recommended window for your breed.

• Castrate wethers at the age your vet recommends for your area and breed.

If I Started Over, I Would

• Cull sooner. Love your goats, but protect the herd. Chronic problems should not stay in your genetics.

• Track everything. Breed dates, weights, milk, and treatments. What gets tracked gets better.

• Build the shed first, then the fence, then buy the goats. Doing it backwards costs more.

• Buy minerals before grain. Nutrition solves more problems than you think.

• Ask for help faster. A quick call to a vet or experienced breeder can save a whole night.

Bonus Tip
Keep a small kidding tote packed year round. If a doe surprises you, you will not be running around the barn looking for towels and iodine.

Fun Fact
A healthy kid should try to stand within 10 minutes and be looking for milk within 30. That drive is powerful and it is your best early health signal.

Closing Thoughts
Breeding and kidding do not have to be scary. Plan your dates, set up a clean space, stock the basics, and watch the signs. Most births will go smoothly. Preparation is what turns a stressful night into a quiet one.

Why I Write This Newsletter
I started Start My Homestead because I wanted to share what real farming and homesteading look like, the wins, the mistakes, and everything in between. I am 20 years old, and my goal is to help inspire more people my age, and even those older than me, to start homesteading. It connects us to our roots, builds real skills, and reminds us where our food comes from. My hope is that these newsletters show how possible it is to build something meaningful right where you are.

Next week I will share a first look at pigs. What I am learning, what I am planning, and whether Red Wattle pigs make sense for our place. If there is something specific you want me to cover, reply to this email and tell me.

-Tim Parker
Start My Homestead